Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge (Phnom Pehn)

Hello folks back again, thanks Ems its been good reading back over our adventures, so Phnom Pehn wow this place really effected us...

The main draw to Phnom Pehn was the infamous S21 prison used by the Kyhmer Rouge and the killing fields.  We decided that we would do the both in one day as we knew the horrors that we would be shown would be heart breaking and gut wrenching.

It is hard to describe the feelings that we both felt from this day and still carry with us now when we speak about it or look a the pictures.  In our first 30 mins at S21, we didnt say a word to each other, there was no way we could articulate what we saw.  The following day it still hung with us, an ever present discomfort...

Between 1975 and 1979, 3 years eight months and twenty days the khymer rouge attempted to create a agrarian society.  The purest form of communism.  No ownership, no individuality, no education, remove all influences of foreigners from the land.  Entire cities where uprooted and sent into the countryside to work 12 - 15 hours a day on rice plantation.  imagine London, Manchester, Birmingham, completed cleared of everyone and moved into the country! Where the only food was rice porridge or rice soup (soup so thin that you could count the amount of rice grains on 2 hands)m to survive they had to eat insects, tree roots, leaves and anything they could find.  The young, old, infirm it didnt matter all worked.  Those from previous government, the educated (if you wore glasses you where considered educated),  foreign ties, diplomats and as the regime continued and got more paranoid the families of these people, and in the end fellow Kyhmer Rouge soldiers for  perceived acts of  terrorism.  Over this time more then 2 million people starved,  tortured and executed.  Thats the equivalent of 1/4 of the population.  Can you imagine 1 in 4 people you know being killed...  And all this happened maybe in your lifetime, or your parents... Anyone we saw over the age of 40 had lived through this...

Below the  pictures give you a small measure of the horrors

The rooms used to torture the prisoners.  The pictures on the wall where how the Vietnamese found the cells when the liberated it.

One small selection of the pictures of those who where executed here.  Like the Nazi's before them they kept merticulas record of what they did

Barb wire was put up to stop prisoners from  committing suicide 

The cells the prisoners spent most of there time.  The ammo box was used for there human waste.

These  pictures  where done by one of the only 7 survives of prison S21

Tools used to torture and execute as bullets where to expensive.

The killing fields.

As you walk around the site, along the footpaths fragments of bone and clothing get raised to the top after rains. 

This is one of the most haunting sites at the killing fields.  It was named the Killing tree, this is where Khymer Rouge soldiers swang babies onto...

This stunning tree, was used to hand speakers from that would drown the screams of the dieing out with loud nationalist music.

I would highly recommend if you would want to learn more about this horrific time the film "The Killing Fields" and the book written by a survivor "First they killed my Father"

Koh Rong & "The Crossing"

As we arrive at the office waiting for our bus to take us to the ferry, we look around and realise we are 1, two of the oldest people there (well Steen being the eldest!) 2, one of the only couple and 3, a lot of groups of drunken lads and girls… hmmm…

The bus ride with all passenger bags at the front blocking us in! Plus the girl behind throwing up! 

As we arrive in Koh Rong, we see in front of us just off the pier what looks like a dingy village on black sewage sand with hostels and restaurants covering every part of the beach with signs for ‘happy’ time (smoking ‘happy’ Tabaco) and cheap cocktails. Asking a holiday rep where our hotel was we hope it is not in this place; luckily they explain it is further up the beach. As we walk up with our bags, the difference was incredible! It was like an invisible line had been drawn in the sand and we had walked from a gloomy town to paradise! The sand was white, water crystal blue and a calming atmosphere! Phew!

Paradise Bungalows were stunning bamboo bungalows on the hillside with views overlooking the sea and although a few problems with bed bugs and moving rooms three times, we had a lovely time! With kayaking, sunbathing, eating breakfast listening to classical music and drinking the best iced coffee I’ve tasted it was again a hard four days! Plus the two free breakfast and large glasses of wine made it even harder ;)

THE CROSSING!

As we awoke on our final morning on Koh Rong I noticed the noise of the sea. Not normally this loud, we went down for our workout and decided perhaps the ferry was not going to be the best way to get back to the mainland today as the sea was particularly rough. Knowing we get a little seasick, we opted for the speedboat at a small extra cost.

With myself thinking it weird the sea was rough today, Steen decides to tell me that he had heard the owner of the hotel telling another customer not to take a boat ride today as the moon was in a specific position creating the tide and sea to be choppy… Thanks for letting me know Steen!!

As the speedboat arrives at the port, the boat it being tossed about trying to anchor up to let passengers off and on. When it finally is close enough a big Russian man struggles to step off as the boat teases him getting close to the pier and then suddenly moving further away, stretching his legs he holds on for life and manages to clamber off the boat… at first he looks angry but as he consoles himself, he started laughing out loud shaking his head walking past us he states ‘That was the most exciting boat ride I’ve ever been on… never forget!’ and walks off the pier still laughing… What have we got ourselves in for?!

As we go through the same routine getting on the boat - basically jumping on hoping not to fall in the water! We stand at the back as the horizon moves up and down and we think to ourselves, this is going to be a bit of a rough ride!

Rough ride does not come close to what ‘The Crossing’ felt like! As the boat starts to speed off it begins to bump up and down lifting high into the air through the 8 – 10ft waves while they tower above us! Side on to the waves, the boat tilts side to side, smacking the waves as they crash in the middle of the ocean! Needless to say I was absolutely terrified absolutely sure we were going to capsize gripping one hand onto the back of the chair and the other onto Steen creating yelps I did not know I had… this may sound dramatic however I will assure you Steen will justify how big and rough these waves were! He was amazing of course and as we reached the other side it was as calm as a millpond; you wouldn’t have a clue what we had just been through!!

Siem Reap to Sihanoukville (the beach)

As we were building ourselves up for another 12 hour night bus, we said our goodbyes to the Samso’s and caught a tuk tuk to the bus station. When we heard the pounding base coming around the corner, we were shocked to see this was in fact our night bus! We walked onto the bus and to our delight the sleep was not chairs just managing a little incline but in fact double pod beds!! With a TV, pillows, blanket and water this was more like it!

Forgetting about the base we had heard before we continued to fall asleep (Steen a little uncomfortable as his legs were just a bit too long for the bus!) until about 3am when that base decided to pound once again through the bus! This song continued on repeat until we arrived at 7am… Thanks Mr Bus driver!! 

Sihanoukville

When we first arrived at our accommodation ‘Strawberry Bungalows’ on Otris 2 beach, it was very quiet with hardly anyone around! Very different to what we had been used to the last few weeks, however we soon got used to the relaxed and lovely people who worked here.

The beach was gorgeous even though there was not much ‘free’ sand to lay a towel on, it had many resorts & bars along the beach with free sunbeds to relax on; Plus the view was picture perfect!

Each morning we woke with a crossfit workout on the beach then went back to Strawberry for the best free breakfast you could ever imagine! The menu was full of delicious choices from American full English, pancakes and fruit… All for free!!

This carried on for the next four days along with sunbathing and trying to ‘relax’ in the 46 degree heat! Steen chased the shade whilst I sweated and stuck it out gaining for a tan! As the sun lost its intensity (approximately 6pm!) we sat with cup of tea watching the sunset! The end of our days would be with Mai Tai cocktails being delivered to our beach hut balcony!! Wonderful!

As we left Strawberry, we were very sad to leave this peaceful and perfect place! However, the next location was expected to be just as beautiful... Koh Rong!